![]() ![]() Next, you need to determine how the device was secured, so we’d suggest you go in this order based on what we’ve experienced: Pin-and-Weld This is why we recommend torqueing against the barrel itself. Just note that if you are not secured in a barrel block or to a reaction rod, you are going to be exerting force on your barrel index pin which is not infallible. ![]() It all depends on how secure the barrel is on the device. Though you can (and we have) get away with simply clamping your receiver in a vice. We recommend using a barrel clamp or reaction rod to prevent any bending, shearing, or breaking. It all depends on how it was put on to the host firearm to begin with though, so we’ll touch on each option below.įirst and foremost, it is very important that you secure the barrel before trying to alter or adjust anything. Well, we’re here to let you know it’s a lot simpler than you may think. Others may be thinking it’s got to be complicated because there’s a full blog post dedicated to it. Some people may be thinking that you just unscrew it and wham-bam it’s done. We’re not trying to over-complicate a simple issue here. Some silencers accept your original muzzle device that information is usually on the manufacturer’s website if you’re questioning whether or not the one you have, or the one you’re interested in, does. Now, you may have caught the caveat above when we say potentially. But when it comes to getting a new silencer for your firearm, there’s potentially one more step standing in the way of fulfilling all your suppressed shooting needs, and that’s how to remove your original muzzle device, and how to install a new one. Often, as in the case here, the pin will be ripped out by the end mill, allowing the muzzle device to be unscrewed and reused since damage to the part was minimal.How to Remove an A2 Muzzle Device & How to Install a New Muzzle Device With a bonus tip on how to time them!Īs most of you know already, we like to indulge in all things NFA. Using a 3mm 4-flute, solid carbide, center-cutting end mill, I begin to make a slow plunge cut into the weld. In this case, I wrapped the muzzle brake in some blue painter’s tape to protect the finish. Since most of the muzzle devices I remove are expensive, I try to remove them in a way which allows them to be reused. I start by securing the muzzle device in the milling machine’s vise. This means you have to do a little math before you start cutting out the pin to ensure you don’t start getting involved with the barrel. One most 223/5.56 AR type rifles, the muzzle threads are 1/2″-28. Modifications to a firearm may result in personal injury or death, cause the firearm to not function properly, or malfunction, and cause the firearm to become unsafe.Īnother word of caution before cutting off a muzzle device: Don’t cut too deeply. Failure to do so may void warranties and result in an unsafe firearm and may cause injury or death. and its authors, do not assume any responsibility, directly or indirectly for the safety of the readers attempting to follow any instructions or perform any of the tasks shown, or the use or misuse of any information contained herein, on this website.Īny modifications made to a firearm should be made by a licensed gunsmith. The contents of are produced for informational purposes only and should be performed by competent gunsmiths only. After two decades of using every method I could think of, this simple technique of plunge cutting with an end mill seems to work the best for most applications. As a shooter’s needs change, they’ll often want to swap hand guards or rail systems and the muzzle device needs to come off so the gas block and barrel nut can be removed. In the shop, we’ll often encounter them on AR-15/M16 M4 barrels that have a muzzle device making length. Blind pinned and welded muzzle devices are often encountered on barrels to make the non-NFA minimum 16″ length on rifles. ![]()
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